After replacing every piece of plastic on my machine I had one piece
left, the Lite Jackpot sign.  This was tricky to replace because it was
riveted to a piece of metal.  I had never riveted before so this was
virgin territory for me.  It's probably something that a lot of people
avoid.  I thought I'd throw this tutorial together to document the
processes involved in replacing rivets.
Rivets can be purchased from www.pinrestore.com
The rivets on the back of the assembly have been rolled over to push the plastic
and the metal together, holding them tightly against each other (that's the idea).  
To remove the old rivets, this rolled over piece of the rivet must be drilled out.
The easiest way to do this is to use a drill press.  Here, I taped the plastic
to a piece of wood to hold it steady.  I used a 1/8th inch drill bit and just
drill right through the middle of the rivet until the rolled over bit fell off.
Notice how the rolled over pieces have come off, the metal part is now easy to
remove from the plastic piece.
ALTERNATE METHOD
Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic, a regular contributor to R.G.P. warned that using a drill
press to drill out rivets may have the undesired effect of spinning the rivet and
marking the plastic in the process.  He suggested that a Dremel and a grinding bit
be used to remove the rolled over portion of the rivet.  If you decide to do it this
way, make sure that you properly secure the piece before working on it (as shown
above)
Whatever method you use, you should now have you're previously riveted pieces
apart.  Take this opportunity to clean things up a bit!
The metal needs to be cleaned up, but apart from that we're ready to go with
the new riveting!
I found the easiest thing to do here was to install all three rivets into the assembly
then run a piece of masking tape across the front.  
Rivets can be purchased from http://www.pinrestore.com
This has two functions.  Firstly, it keeps everything together and makes sure that
everything is in the right place and not askew when squeezing the first rivet tight.  
Secondly, the rivet tool I'm using tends to leave marks on the rivet head.  The
tape (and a little oil) protects the rivet head from damage.
Here's the rivet tool that I use.  
It's a simple rivet squeezer
modified from a c-clamp.  I
bought it from Ebay from a seller
named "Hurky"  Search for that
user on Ebay, he sells these things
quite regularly.
Here's the important part of
the tool.  This is the piece
that rolls over the end of the
rivet when the rivet is
squeezed against it.  It's
called the rollover die.
Here a new rivet is in the
tool.  Twisting the clamp's
screw pushes the rivet into
the rollover die which, as
the name implies, rolls the
rivet's end over on itself.
Looking closely at this picture you'll see
the end of the rivet rolled up and back
over on itself.  You'll need to use a few
spare rivets to get a feel of just how
hard you need to screw the clamp down
to get the right amount of rollover.  
Don't worry about going too soft when
you're actually doing it, you can always
go back an squeeze the same rivet a bit
harder, just remember to make sure the
head is protected by more masking tape.
Here's our newly rolled over rivet.  Again the amount of the rollover depends on
how much you screw down using the c-clamp.  You can always squeeze more,
but squeezing too much could damage the plastic, so go slowly and be careful!
Here's the final piece, ready to be installed back into the game.
Questions?  Click here to E-mail me.


Shown below is the plastic on my machine next to the new plastic.  Notice the
nice contrast difference in the new piece.